The fascinating cultures of northern Spain are vibrant, unique, and intriguingly spiritual. Much like the diverse landscapes which tumble from lofty mountains to the crashing waves of the Atlantic, each region of northern Spain has its own customs, cuisine, and even languages. Here, you’ll experience the delight of Basque pintxo, or tapas—savoring plates of sobrasada, stuffed piquillo peppers, and quince drizzled with honey presented on small plates with little wooden skewers for sharing. Among the medieval villages and quaint seaside hamlets you’ll meet people from all over the world. Just like you, they’ve come here to do one thing—walk.
The Camino de Santiago is a legendary pilgrimage route which took hold in the 12th and 13th centuries, allowing Catholics to reduce their time in purgatory by walking to the burial site of St. James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. One important thing to know about religious pilgrimages—they are NOT vacations. A Country Walkers adventure, by contrast, is fun, invigorating, enlightening, and delicious—with comfortable stays in 4- and 5-star hotels, scenic walks guided by local experts, scrumptious meals, and fascinating cultural experiences. “The Camino is a prolonged devotional pilgrimage, which means there are many parts which are not so pleasant to walk,” explains Country Walkers Trip Designer Andrea Chlebova. “To craft a Country Walkers adventure that brings the flavor and history of the Camino de Santiago to life, we picked scenic walks that are off the beaten path. Most people know the famous French Way, which goes from France to Santiago de Compostela. This vacation brings you the best walks from the French Way, as well as the North Way, the Primitivo Way, and even the Finisterre Way—which is an unusual and beautiful approach to Santiago de Compostela.”
Cantabria’s Farm to Table
The Northern Camino Way is renowned for its scenic coastline. Starting in Euskadi, also known as Basque Country, your route traces this historic path into the region of Cantabria—where dramatic sandstone cliffs plunge into the sea. As you walk the peaceful countryside, you’ll see cows, horses, and sheep grazing contentedly among green pastures—flanked on one side by mountains, on the other, by the Atlantic Ocean. “Here, we’ll stop at the farm of some local friends,” describes Andrea. “Originally, they opened their farm with just the sheep and cows. They would offer meals to pilgrims walking along the Camino Way. Now, they have a little bar as well where we will stop for a tasting of the cheeses they produce on the farm—very high quality and delicious. My personal favorite is their cheese tart—it’s like nothing else I’ve ever tasted!” As you walk the wild and wind-swept coastline of Cantabria, you’ll experience splendid cuisine with characteristics of both sea and mountains—including sorropotún de bonito, a savory stew made with tuna, and queso picon, a rich blue cheese which is often smeared on top of rare steaks.
Exploring the Ancient Traditions of Asturias
Let’s face it: nothing really captures the flavor of medieval Spain like an ancient monastery—and this Country Walkers adventure includes stays in several. For example, the four-star Parador de Cangas de Onis is situated in the oldest Benedictine monastery in the Spanish province of Asturias. This ancient stone building is situated at the feet of the Picos de Europa National Park—making it the perfect spot to explore this vibrant landscape. “Asturias is such a fascinating place,” says Andrea. “Here, you’ll find a dramatic landscape of mountains descending all the way to the sea. On one of our walks, we’ll meet Pepin, a local shepherd who grazes his flocks of Xalda sheep among these hills. Pepin, and his border collies Max and Lupo, will give us a demonstration of traditional sheep herding techniques in the region. It’s a fascinating glimpse into local culture.”
Agriculture is strong in Asturias—where the temperate climate of northern Spain is perfect for cooler crops, such as apples. “Asturias is very famous for its cider,” explains Andrea. “One evening, we will go to a local bar where we’ll experience the authentic Asturian cider. There’s a small ritual involved; first, the server pours a small amount of cider from a very great height into a small glass below—creating a long stream of cider. It’s not easy to hit the glass and takes years of practice to perfect the pour. Once you have your glass, the custom is to demonstrate appreciation by drinking it all in one gulp.” Pouring the cider from a height also gives the beverage a chance to aerate—enhancing the cider’s flavor and giving it a slight effervescence. The effervescence of the room is somehow enhanced as well—and it’s common for cider tasting events to be accompanied by traditional Asturian song and revelry.
Creepy, Celtic, and Completely Cool
The Spanish region of Galicia has a direct relationship with Celtic traditions—in fact, the Irish are said to be descendants of the Galicians. Perhaps this is why you’ll find similar occult folklore in both places—with witches, elves, and fairies taking center stage in local legends. “In Galicia, the landscape is very different,” says Andrea. “Here it is very green—and with the mild temperatures, you almost feel like you’re in Ireland!” This portion of the Camino de Santiago is wild and stunningly beautiful—and not nearly as crowded as the most popular Camino routes.
The tradition of Galician witchcraft pre-dates the Camino de Santiago—with ancient Spanish legends devoted to the machinations of these dark and magical folk. It’s even said that a network of energetic meridians, or lay lines, outlines the web of Camino walking paths—culminating in a natural center at Santiago de Compostela. In that sense, one could argue that the intense spiritual significance of the Camino de Santiago originates with the land itself—a magnetic draw, inexorably guiding pilgrims along the sacred routes.
One Galician tradition that survives to this day is the queimada. Said to banish evil spirits, the queimada ceremony involves a drink made with oruxo—a strong locally-produced liquor similar to grappa. “In Galicia, we stay in a beautiful, converted monastery from the 17th-century,” explains Andrea. “One evening, we’ll descend into the monastery’s ancient crypt for a queimada demonstration with a local expert. He will explain the tradition and read an incantation, called o conxuro—summoning the elements of earth, air, water, and fire.” Following the o conxuro, the drink is set alight, where it burns with a ghostly blue flame. Traditionally prepared for Samhain, or Galician Halloween, the queimada is intended to protect the drinker from evil influences.
The superlative vineyards of Ribeira Sacre are another fascinating Galician feature. “We will visit a local vineyard where the vines are planted on slopes so steep they can only be tended by hand,” explains Andrea. “Actually, Ribeira Sacre has one of the best wines in Spain, but they only produce a limited volume because of the amount of work it takes to tend the vines on the steep incline. It’s breathtaking to see these hillside vineyards—and the wine is truly exceptional.”
The Path to the End of the Earth
One of the most beautiful sections of the Camino de Santiago is the Finisterre Way—running from Santiago de Compostela towards the Galician coast, ending in Cabo Finisterre. It is the only Camino Way that starts in Santiago de Compostela; all other trails end in that sacred city. The Finisterre Way leads pilgrims 90 kilometers to the peninsula considered by ancient Galicians to be the end of the Earth. According to legend, Aris Solis, an ancient stone circle at Finisterre, kept track of the sun’s movements—and was later the site where St. James preached the gospels to Galicians. “The pilgrims walked to Santiago de Compostela, but some of them wanted to see the end of the world,” explains Andrea. “The Finisterre Way is one of the most uncrowded Camino paths—and very beautiful as you walk through pine and eucalyptus forests. For Country Walkers, it makes the most sense to walk the Finisterre Way in reverse—entering Satiago de Compostela on a beautiful path without car traffic.” Along the way, you’ll explore charming villages, rivers, and even an ancient stone mill.
Arriving in the sacred city, you’ll reach the crème de la crème of the Camino—the great cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. There, in the Plaza del Obradoiro, your home for two nights is a converted hospital said to be the oldest hotel in Spain. The historic five-star Hostal dos Reis Católicos has a wealth of authentic Spanish touches—including the original hospital cloisters, historic furnishings in every room, and a lavish dining room serving the best of Galician cuisine—including authentic Galician pimientos de Padrón, and Tarta de Santiago, a rich almond cake which has been satisfying the local sweet tooth since the Middle Ages. Situated next to the famous cathedral, you have the entirety of Santiago de Compostela at your feet.